How to order
Please telephone our office to discuss your requirements, we would be pleased to advise you on the most suitable model for your requirements and provide a quotation. For standard trailers we accept a verbal order and we will post you an acknowledgement with prices within a few days. Some trailers are available from stock but most will be built to order. We will give an estimated delivery time but this cannot be guaranteed. Payment will be required either prior to, or on collection or delivery. We do not require a deposit unless the trailer is a special build.
This site is the most up to date source of price information.
In order to maintain the appearance of the galvanising, road salt must be washed off new galvanise after every trip to prevent it from salting. When the trailer is about one year old and the frame has turned to a dull grey the finish is better protected.
The rust protection is not compromised if salting occurs, but the galvanise can look unsightly if not looked after when new.
Reversing Lights and Electrical Plugs
All our braked trailers (o2) are now fitted with reversing lamps. Towing vehicles fitted with the standard 7 pin type N socket will not operate these. The vehicle has to have an extra socket, type S fitted or the continental 13 pin socket.
Trailers will be supplied with the standard 7 pin type N, unless ordered with a 13 pin or twin 7 pin sockets for the reversing lamps.
The reversing lamps are all pre-wired to the main junction box and an extra plug and cable can be fitted when required.
12N 7pin 12S 7 Pin
1 Yellow LH Indicator 1 Yellow Reversing Lamps
2 Blue Fog Lamp 2 Blue Spare
3 White Earth 3 White Earth
4 Green RH Indicator 4 Green 12v Power feed
5 Brown RH Tail, End outline, Number Plate Lamp 5 Brown Spare
6 Red Stop Lamps 6 Red Fridge
7 Black LH Tail, End Outline, Number Plate Lamp 7 Black Spare
13 Pin Wiring
1 Yellow LH Indicator
2 Blue Rear Fog Lamp
3 White Earth
4 Green RH Indicator
5 Brown RH Tail Lamp, End Outline, Number Plate Lamp
6 Red Stop Lamps
7 Black LH Tail Lamps, End Outline, Number Plate Lamp
8 Pink Reversing Lamps
9 Orange 12V Power Feed
10 Grey Fridge
11 White / Black Earth for 10
12 White / Blue Spare
13 White / Red Earth for 9
Tipping and tilt bed trailers are fitted with either a 12 v electric pump or a manual hand pump. The oil used is AW46 but any thin hydraulic oil would be suitable for topping up. On trailers fitted with a hand pump, the pressure can be increased, if required by screwing in the relief valve, opposite where the hose is connected to the pump there is a plated nut cap. this can be unscrewed off and the valve screwed in clockwise with a flat screwdriver. The lock nut / cap can then be replaced. Do not work under a hydraulically raised body unless it is propped. keep the outside of the push rod or telescopic tube, lightly oiled.
LED rear lights are fitted standard to platform trailers, fog lamps, stop lamps and flashers are all bulb type to avoid the problem with many modern vehicles sending a small test pulse through the circuits which can operate the lights.
For this reason and the expensive cost of replacements we do not recommend LED Lights for anything but rear, side and front markers.
However if the towing vehicle is suitable, or is wired with trailer light relays, we can offer a full LED option for most of our trailers in our range, with whole vehicle type approval. Cost approximately £150 / £200 depending on the model.
Tyre size psi bar
16.5-6.5 x 8 43 3.1
20.5×8-10 35 2.4
145 x R10 35 2.4
165 R13C 55 3.7
140/70 R12C 61 4.25
205/80 R16 45 3.1
185/70 R13 34 2.4
155/70 R12C 76 5.2
195/55 R10 76 5.2
195/50 R13C 94 6.5
Axle and Hitch Bolt Torque
M12 8.8 Hitch and Axle Bolt 70 Nm – 52 lb/ft
M14 10.9 Hitch Head Bolts 170 Nm -125lb/ft
Wheel Bolt/Nut Torque
3/8 UNF 60Nm
M12 x 1.5 Bolt 90Nm
M12 x 1.5 Nut 100Nm
M16 x 1.5 Nut 195Nm
All trailers are supplied standard with a lockable 50mm ball coupling at the European standard height of 430 mm. to the ball centre + or – 35 mm.
An eye type coupling to suit a pin and jaw hitch can be fitted to any trailer to special order.
A separate eye should be provided on the towing vehicle to attach the trailer safety brake away cable.
Load Securing Points
Loads should be safely secured to the load points provided on the trailer. The three common types are the profile cut holes in the steel platform. dedicated recessed deck rings and the welded hooks on the corners and on the chassis side rails, depending on the type of trailer. All three types have a safe working load of up to 500 kg each and have been tested to in excess of twice this capacity, in line with D.o.T. guide lines.
Certificate or Conformity
Every new road trailer is supplied with an EU certificate of conformity which is a legal requirement. If a replacement is requested, we require proof of ownership and the VIN number, a charge of £20 is made to cover administration. (Not available for trailers manufactured before October 2012)
ECWVTA Approval Numbers
BS1 O1 Single axle un braked trailers. e11 2007/46 0784 Ext 01 Rev 01
BT1 O1 Twin axle un braked trailers. e11 2007/46 0785 Ext 01 Rev 01
BS2 O2 Single axle braked trailers. e11 2007/46 0975 Ext 01 Rev 01
BT2 O2 Twin axle braked trailers. e11 2007/46 0689 Ext 02 Rev 02
B32 O2 Triple axle braked trailers e11 2007/46 0791 Ext 02 Rev 02
Our most common call for spares and service are when the user notices the trailer hitch sliding too freely and banging when braking or moving off. this is due to the hitch damper failure and it will need replacing. These dampers are very reliable and only fail if they are allowed to ‘full stroke’ for a period causing overheating and ultimate failure. This is mainly due to the brakes being in poor condition and out of adjustment for some time. It is not advisable to replace the hitch damper without servicing the brakes and most likley replacing the brake shoes.
The following schedule is recommended to keep the trailer in good condition. Maintenance
requirements will vary depending on the circumstances in which the trailer is operating.
After the first 500 miles the brakes must be adjusted at the hubs to allow for initial bedding
in. Failure to do this will permit the hitch damper to travel excessively and overheat causing
premature failure which cannot be covered by our warranty.
Each 500 miles or 800 km:
1. Check the operation of the lights.
2. Check the tyre pressures.
3. Check that the wheel nuts are tight.
4. Check for missing hub grease caps and inspect for any damage.
Each 2500 miles or 4000km:
5. Adjust the brakes.
6. Lubricate the brake linkages.
7. Check the free movement of the brake cables.
8. Inspect for tyre wear.
9. Grease the overrun coupling and lubricate the jockey wheel.
10. Check the security of the axle and hitch mounting bolts.
Each 5000 miles or 8000km:
11. Remove the hubs and check the brake lining condition.
12. Check, re-grease and readjust tne wheel hub bearings.
13. Inspect the floor for signs of wear, the rear door catches and the general body
How to adjust the brakes
1. Jack up the trailer one wheel at a time whilst other wheels remain chocked.
2. Release the handbrake and ensure that the overrun coupling is fully forward and that
the cables and linkages are free and fully retracted.
3. Rotate the wheel forward and tighten the adjuster on the back of the brake plate until
the brakes apply.
4. Release the adjuster until the wheel turns freely forward.
5. Apply and release the handbrake to centralise the braKe shoes.
6. Make any final adjustments required to the brakes.
7. Repeat on the other wheels.
8. The main brake rod adjuster at the back of the hitch should not require adjustment,
but if this is necessary, release the lock nuts and adjust the linkage until there is 1mm
of play between the hitch draw tube and the main brake operating lever.
9. Check the operation of the handbrake, the brake linkage should retract when each
wheel is rotated backwards and the brakes should reapply.
Most brake adjustment problems and the cause of hubs overheating is usually the flexible
cables being damaged or sticking. If they are not working freely they should be replaced.
The cables should not be greased, this may cause them to stick, but they can be lightly oiled.
How to remove, refit and adjust the hubs.
1. Chock the wheels and release the parking brake.
2. Jack up the trailer and remove a wheel.
3. Slacken the brake adjuster if necessary.
4. With a screwdriver blade inserted between the flange of the grease cap and the hub,
remove the cap.
5. Straighten and remove the split pin from the axle nut.
6. Remove the nut anti-clockwise and draw the hub off, taking care to retain the outer
7. Check the condition of the brake linings and the operation of the brake expander.
Inhalation of brake dust can be harmful.
8. Replace the brake shoes if necessary.
9. Examine the condition of the wheel bearings and grease seal.
10. If the grease is contaminated, wash it out with paraffin and pack the bearings with a
suitable hub grease.
11. Refit the hub and tighten the nut fully.
12. Slacken the nut until it is not applying pressure to the bearing and there is no free play.
Normally about 30 degrees, or one slot in the castle nut.
13. Refit the split pin and grease cap.
Adjust the brakes as previously described.
How to replace the brake cables.
1. Chock the trailer wheels, release the handbrake.
2. Remove the lock nut on the forward end of the cable attaching it to the balance bar.
Retain the cup washer.
3. Release the locknut securing the cable to the axle beamand release the cable through
the slot in the bracket.
4. Draw the outer cable cover away from the brake back plate.
5. Remove the top half of the cable bracket and unhook the end of the cable from the
6. Refit the new cable in the eyelet, replace the cover and slide the shroud on the cable,
back over the bracket.
7. Reconnect the linkage and adjust the brakes.
If any other work is considered necessary it is recommended that this is done by
Bateson Trailers Limited, or one of our approved dealers.
Parts can be obtained from your dealer or despatched direct from the works.
Telephone: 0161-426 0500 ext 25.
Please quote the VIN number beginning SBN of the trailer plate
Horse Trailer Floors.
Traditionally horse trailer floors were made from hardwood timber planks usually Keruing,this is a brilliant material and with a high resin content was virtually rot proof. However cutting down rain forests is not a good idea! and the timber became very expensive or un- obtainable.
Some manufacturers used soft wood and double timber floors, these were strong and looked good from above and below but would rot between the layers where water was trapped. Other manufacturers, ourselves included used Phenol coated marine floor ply as used on commercial vehicles and shipping containers. This is a good material and works well but must not be left wet for long periods. For this reason all our horse trailers have always had removable stall mats to allow the floor to dry when washed out and for periodic inspection. A large one piece mat would make this very difficult.
If these floors are looked after they should last a lifetime, in practice after 10 years some floors are showing signs of deterioration and should be repaired or replaced. At the beginning of 2007 we decided to replace the timber sections with 100% rot proof Plastic material, this has proved to be a very successful solution.
Other manufacturers are now fitting Alloy Plank floors. These appear very good and rot proof but corrosion may eventually occur between the Galvanised chassis and the alloy but this will be some time and is not an issue for concern.
Because of customer demand we are also offering an alloy plank floor as an option on all our new trailers and as a kit to fit into older models.
We believe that the new floors either Plastic or Alloy will last a lifetime and give no cause for concern.
Alloy floor option on new trailers £100 + vat
Alloy floor replacement kit £380 + vat + carriage
Fitting at our factory £120 + vat